Lowest to highest grade steeped 5 g / 450 mL 85-95 C water for 2 to 5 min (western parameters).
Grade 2: small, fragmented, homogeneously black leaves. The orange red liquor is very malty, comparable to ceylon black tea. Bitterness is much less than in ceylon black. Medium flavor of honey and aroma of tobacco. Sweetness intensifies and bitterness decreases as tea cools. At the edge of needing milk. Caffeine rush is somewhat high and caused mild headache, comparable to drinking coffee. Full 5 min first steeping recommended. Second steeping similar to first in terms of flavor profile, but much weaker, though enjoyable. This is good value tea.
Grade 1: dried leaves are black and small. There are some golden tips. In the mouth (after 5 min steeping), the tea is mellow and mildly flowery with honey aromas. Very little bitterness in the front while tea is hot. As the tea cools and in the aftertaste, bitterness intensifies greatly. Overall, this has much stronger astringency compared to grade 2 and would require milk. Even steeping for only 3 minutes was overly tannic and unpleasant. Tannin is so strong, my stomach felt squeezed. Interestingly, as the tea cools further, the tannins seem to become more balanced and a leathery texture and aroma emerges along with some Honey and chocolate flavors. This is the state in which the tea is most interesting and pleasant. As the tea cools further, the tannins seem to fall apart, and there develops tart red fruit flavors. Aftertaste also becomes more smoky and slightly fruity instead of pure bitterness. However, throat and stomach still feel gripping astringency. Second steep is very weak, and not worth doing. This is the worst tea of the line up and the only tea i have ever had that made my gums hurt!
Premium Keemun Hao Ya Black: Similar to grade 1 in appearance. In the mouth, much more mild in astringency compared to grade 1. Very reminiscent of a ceylon tea that demands lemon. Overall, not very interesting. Resteep is very weak. Not good value.
Keemun Aromatic Snail Black Tea: even black spirals as advertised. Unfolded, leaves are relatively long and fragmented. At 4 min, the tea has some yam and ketchup flavors. At 4:30, honey and malt predominate. As the tea cools, there is some cocoa and chocolate flavors that emerge. The tea is smooth and thick. Astringency is relatively low. There is a a sweet tomato and yam aftertaste. This is a fundamentally different tea compared to the lower grades and is enjoyable but is not representative of keemun. Second steep is much weaker but enjoyable.
Superfine Keemun Fragrant Black Tea: at the same price point as the spirals, this tea has similar quality but very different attributes. While the spirals are intensely sweet and malty, this tea is dominated by dark tannins resulting in rich notes of leather, very dark chocolate and coffee. There is a lingering aftertaste of light charcoal roast, chocolate and minerality reminiscent of yan cha. Recommended brewing parameters by the vendor is 1 to 3 min at 85 C. At 3 min, the leather dominates. 2 min is more balanced. Will steep a second robust cup at 6 to 8 minutes depending on brew parameters used in first cup. A third steep for 20+ minutes is much weaker but still satisfying. As the tea cools, it becomes more creamy and smooth. Medium to high astringency but low bitterness, as long as 3 minutes is not exceeded. A combination of this tea with the spirals in terms of quality attributes would be ideal. This tea may be worth approaching with gongfu parameters.
Superfine Keemun Mao Feng Black Tea: dry leaf is similar to premium hao ya, but with more golden buds. Brewed 4 min at 90C. Sweet root vegetable and cocoa notes predominate. Astringency is much more controlled compared to the premium hao ya. 3 min steeping time may be preferable. A second steeping at 12 minutes and a third steeping for 30 min were satisfying. Not particularly complex but more pleasant than the premium hao ya.
Keemun Imperial Black Tea: this is their top tier keemum. Leaves are more intact and there are more golden buds. There is a distinct sweet potato smell from the dry leaves. Brewed 3 min at 85 C. Very soft, gentle but thick and smooth mouthfeel. There are light honey and sweet root vegetable notes as well as some mold chocolate flavor. There is also a tomato-umami flavor combined with an interesting minerality that lingers on. In some ways, this is most similar to the aromatic snail tea, but less astringent and a bit sweeter. Surprisingly, there is no leathery or earthy character. Second brew at 7 minutes and third brew at 25 mins are satisfying. Is definitely worth brewing with gongfu parameters.
Conclusion: in general, the keemuns have a root vegetable sweetness that generally intensifies as the tea cools. Some keemuns trend towards sweeter and more tomato-umami characteristics. Others trend towards chocolate and leathery characteristics, which may be more traditional.
Picture of imperial keemun leaves
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